Berlin

A whistle-stop tour of the German capital, staying with Berliners and sampling their infectious energy.

Splitting my stay between leafy and residential Charlottenburg in the West of the city and up-and-coming Shöneweide in the East, my experience was two sides of a coin. Here are some of the eclectic highlights:

Klunkerkarnich Rooftop Bar

DO:

A variety of art, from modern to photographic

• Berggruen Museum: in the peaceful environs of Schloss Charlottenburg is a gem of a collection (http://www.smb.museum/en/museums-institutions/museum-berggruen/home.html). Klee, Matisse, Picasso, Cézanne and Giacometti are all extensively represented, with works spanning both earlier and later periods in the artists’ incredible careers. Unusually thorough and enlightening explanations – you could (and I did) spend hours in here.

Giacometti at the Berggruen Museum

• Martin-Gropius-Bau: a cultural space with fantastic exhibitions and an Aladdin’s cave of a bookshop (http://www.berlinerfestspiele.de/en/aktuell/festivals/gropiusbau/ueber_uns_mgb/aktuell_mgb/start.php). I caught the photographer Thomas Struth’s exhibition ‘Nature and Politics’ (http://www.berlinerfestspiele.de/en/aktuell/festivals/gropiusbau/programm_mgb/mgb16_thomas_struth/ausstellung_thomas_struth/ausstellung_thomas_struth_147990.php) – a series of 37 photographs depicting industrial plants and desolate urban landscapes.
• Hamburger Bahnhof: whilst many visitors come for the permanent collection, the exhibitions are the highlight. ‘Capital: Debt – Territory – Utopia’ was a brilliantly curated ensemble of painting, sculpture, installation, literature, film and music, ranging in time and space, all revolving around Joseph Beuys’s work ‘The Capital Space’ (http://www.smb.museum/en/museums-institutions/hamburger-bahnhof/home.html).

Joseph Beuys’s ‘The Capital Space 1970-1977’

Alternatively, to kick out and catch some fresh air:

• Tempelhofer Feld: Berlin’s old airport, this huge aviation space has been converted into a recreation area complete with ‘urban gardening’ and a plethora of joggers, cyclists and kite-flyers. The perfect place to be active, enjoy a BBQ, or simply pick up on the broad energy and modernity of Berlin. Nothing pretty or twee here. It’s better than that. (http://www.visitberlin.de/en/spot/tempelhofer-feld-tempelhof-field-1).

‘Urban gardening’ at Tempelhofer Feld

• Kreuzberg Canal: stroll the stretch of canal from Kottbusser Tor and catch it on a sunny day if you’re lucky. When night falls, catch the locals sitting on the bank with a beer. It’s not Amsterdam – it feels more real.

EAT:

• Two Planets: trendy café serving coffee, smoothies and killer avocado on toast. Exciting ingredients – well worth stopping off on your way to or from Tempelhofer Feld.
• Parker Bowles: a trendy yet affordable restaurant with exciting dishes and all day breakfast on the menu. Raw sweet potato and goats cheese salad and ‘eggs in a glass’ with chorizo highly recommended (http://parker-bowles.com/en/)

Lunch at Parker Bowles

• Cuore Di Vetro: run by a young Italian couple, don’t miss this gelateria offering the likes of vegan chocolate sorbet. Sit outside and people-watch or watch them making it in the back whilst you enjoy your ice cream out of a glass ramekin – the old-fashioned way.

DRINK:

• Schwarzes Cafe: under the golden ceiling and heavy peeling stucco-work this bar/restaurant absolutely thrives with activity. Tucked away in Charlottenburg it’s been a popular spot for decades and at night, it’s the perfect place for a candlelit drink.
• Klunkerkarnich: at the top of the Neukölln Arcaden (a high-rise shopping complex) this rooftop bar bursts to life. (http://www.klunkerkranich.de) Emerge from the multi-storey car park on the floor below and be in for a surprise: recline in the intimacy of the mis-match sofas inside, or enjoy  live music and sunset views on the wooden decking outside.

SHOP:

• Hardwax Record Store: https://hardwax.com .Tucked away up many flights of steep stairs, this is a record store for connoisseurs with an impressive collection.
• Voo: next door to Parker Bowles restaurant, this is an Aladdin’s cave for the grown-up or the professional. A huge concept space best described as a homeware store with an exciting array of stationery, art materials, clothing and design.

 

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